Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Dining in Lyon

Le Mere Lyonnaise, a 100-year-old Lyon restaurant now in the capable hands of two-star Michelin chef Mathieu Viannay, won me over from the first course - succulent raw oysters in a basil jelly with caviar. The private dining rooms are the former bedrooms of the original owner and give the contemporary restaurant a Belle Epoch intimacy.

Dining here is theatre that will leave you shouting, "Encore! Encore!"

Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse

Paul Bocuse, the creator of Nouvelle Cuisine, put Lyon on the gastronomic map and Lyon returned the favor by adding the chef's name to its glass-enclosed gourmet market, containing 59 purveyors of the finest produce, cheeses, fish, meat, wines and desserts in all of France.

This is a great place to buy edible souvenirs, grab a picnic lunch or take a cooking class at Institute Paul Bocuse. Vendors offer free samples and are happy to discuss their products. Restaurants and seafood bars on the premises. (Wear loose-fitting clothes!)

Annecy, France

If you like romantic canals, swans, snow-capped mountains, crystal clear lakes, chalets and scrumptious cuisine, you'll fall in love with Annecy. This is where well-heeled Parisians ski in the winter and sail in the summer. You can smell the money in the pure, crisp mountain air.

While the Glitterati stay in 4-star resort hotels, mere mortals pitch their tents at campsites around the shimmering lake. Rent a bike, paraglide or visit one of the charming villages within a half hour drive. My favorite activity? The outdoor Antique Market on the last Saturday of the month along the canal.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Whose woods these are, I think I know

Covered wooden bridges, bubbling streams, waterfalls, bike trails, the clip clop of horses, dogs dancing on the ends of their leashes, ducks and geese gliding in the river, autumn leaves crunching underfoot. All good reasons to abandon your regular routine and head for Forbidden Drive, the 5-mile scenic trail that meanders through the Wissahickon Woods in the northwest section of Philadelphia's Fairmount Park. Enjoy brunch, lunch or dinner at the historic Valley Green Inn.

www.valleygreeninn.com

Sunday, August 30, 2009

The Truth About Press Trips

Yes, we travel writers get FREE trips, stay in luxury hotels, dine on gourmet fare and swim in champagne without ever seeing the tab. But we do all this with a group of strangers whose charming (or alarming) company we are in from morning to night. If the group is congenial, as were the 25 journalists with whom I toured Prague and Southern Moravia, it's party time. Although I have a hunch that the reason we got along so well was that none of us spoke the other's language and they kept us very well lubricated.

The day this photo was taken, we were drinking champagne on an antique trolley in Prague. Once we were totally sloshed, they then put us on a boat in the Charles River and gave us enough Czech beer to launch a thousand frat houses. www.czechtourism.com

Saturday, August 8, 2009

Oooh La La Spa: Hotel Mizpe Hayamim

Who knew? Relais & Chateau, the luxury French hotel group, now includes Israel's Hotel/Spa Mizpe Hayamim (Meez-PAH Ha-YAH-meem). From the terrace of my spacious room, I had a beathtaking view of the Sea of Galilee and the rolling hills of Rosh-Pina.

A masseuse named Kineret, which is the Hebrew name for the Sea of Galilee, expertly kneaded my tense muscles into humus in a candle lit room nestled in the garden. Talk about being in Paradise! This is the migration route for hundreds of species of birds, so the air is always filled with their song. The healthy, gourmet cuisine comes from animals and produce raised on the hotel's organic farm. The spa menu includes Shiatsu, Reiki, Feldenkreis, Reflexology, Cranio-Sacral, Acupuncture & Thai Massage. www.mizpe-hayamim.com

Monday, August 3, 2009

San Miguel: The Beat Goes On


If you're a fan of Frida Khalo or want to honor Jack Kerouac's last tequila, head on down to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. Discovered by The Beat Generation in the 1950's, San Miguel remains a center of culture, cuisine and craftsmanship. I stayed at Casa Luna, an enchanting B&B filled with Mexican folk art, antiques, gardens, fountains and a rooftop terrace for sunning and knocking back fresh fruit margaritas.
By day, go to the Indian Market for regional crafts and roasted corn seasoned with chipolte and lime. Or take a weaving or a Spanish course at Instituto Allende. Every night, the entire town gathers in the park for strolling mariaches, ice cream and flirtation. Want to avoid Mexico City? Fly via Houston to Queretaro, Mexico, an historic colonial town 40 miles from San Miguel. www.CasaLuna.com